A PLACE I LOVE
It’s not an easy place to find. I couldn’t find it on any map, including Google. The only city sign is located in the village, so you’ve got to be there to see it. If you speak Lao, and can ask somebody for directions, chances are they’ve never heard of it. When in Pakse (second largest city in Lao and 70 kilometers away) and conducting any type of business, no one I’ve talked to has ever heard of it. Strangely, I like it this way.
Kengmaihia (geng-my-hee-ah) a village of about 400 people is in the northeast corner of Sanasomboun District, Champasak, province. Champasak is the southern most province in Laos, bordering Cambodia and Thailand.
The dusty or muddy path (it’s either one or the other and I’m reluctant to call it a dirt road) ends at the river that runs through the village. You can cross the river on a wooden foot bridge.
Many will ask, “why do I love it there”. It’s a self-contained village with surrounding forests that provide fresh vegetables, fruits, mushrooms, fish and a wide variety of healthful edibles you only have to gather, it’s natures store. The deep wells provide clear, cold water. One major advantage are the people themselves that inhabit this community. Everyone shares from their own personal garden with someone that may grow something else. Only natural fertilizers are used. Seems that every family has a member who is an expert at something.
The community works together with mutual respect. Virtually no crime, no police and with no designated leaders to my knowledge. Everyone is greeted with a polite smile and a slight bowing of head, raised palms together and the words Sabaidee.
With no doctors, hospitals or clinics, certain villagers with an extensive knowledge of herbal, holistic and natural healing experience are the first to visit you if sick or injured. The entire village may at one time or another visit you if ill, bringing you small little gifts of some kind. They all look happy and bring a certain warmth, which seems like a celebration of sorts. Being surrounded with happy people is a much better way to convalesce.
A personal example is when I slipped and fell off the roof of my home. A neighbor saw me and came to my aid. My right ankle and foot were bent at an angle and quickly turning black. Using a blanket, several men and women carried me to the healers home. She sent two young girls into forest for a particular leaf and made me a horrible hot tea to drink. Whatever it was, it worked at reducing the pain. When the girls returned with baskets full of 3 foot long and 3 inch wide leaves, she started grinding them with a mortar and pestle. The green paste was then applied to my foot and ankle (looked like a green cast).
The fibrous remains of the leaves were like a natural Ace bandage. She tightly wrapped these around my green cast and gave me several more cups of the horrible tasting tea. It was during monsoon and no ferries were available to get to town. This would be my only treatment. Each day the young girls would bring the long leaves and repeat the procedure. On the second day they brought two forked poles for crutches.
On the fourth day, the old lady healer had the young girls gently straightening my ankle which was now more blue than black. After a week, I was able to put some of my weight on it. By the time I was able to get to town, it felt much better. There was a slight new bump under the skin, but I never did get it x-rayed or treated. If I ever wear shoes again, I’ll have to buy two pair of shoes, one from each pair to fit both of my feet.